Blue and Ivory Ombre Silk Chiffon
Chiffon is a term that is used to refer to a wide variety of different types of fabrics that all share similar qualities. This type of fabric is sheer , which means that it is light and semi-transparent with a simple weave.
This type of fabric was originally made from silk, and it was both expensive and in high demand among upper-class women in Europe and the United States when it was originally marked in the mid-19th century. The term "chiffon" is French, and it literally translates as "cloth" or "rag," but this word has come to be synonymous with any type of lustrous, sheer fabric that is woven in a particular style.
Chiffon fabric was first made in France, but the production of this substance expanded worldwide as the Industrial Age picked up steam. By the first few decades of the 1900s, silk chiffon was in relatively wide production in the United States, and producers of this fabric in America were starting to show interest in replacing silk with another material for chiffon production.
Convertible Bridesmaid Dress in chiffon fabric
The first non-silk chiffon became available for consumer use in 1938. It was made from nylon, which was, at the time, heralded as a miracle fabric that would rapidly replace practically every type of organic textile. However, serious issues with nylon as a chiffon textile quickly became apparent, and for a while, most chiffon was, once again, made from silk.
In 1958, however, a polyester version of chiffon was developed, and most chiffon in existence today is made from this purely synthetic material. As a chiffon textile, polyester mirrored silk in many ways, but it, of course, was not as soft or "silky" as this organic textile.
While much of today's chiffon is still made from polyester, manufacturers of this sheer and alluring material have also tried using rayon to make chiffon. In some cases, cotton may also be used, but this pill-prone and relatively delicate substance isn't as suited for chiffon as many other synthetic or semi-synthetic materials. To some degree, chiffon is still made from silk, but silk chiffon is now seen as a luxury textile, and it is only available in the form of relatively expensive chiffon garments.
Crinkled Polyester Chiffon Fabric – Ivory
Rather than being distinctive for being made from a certain material, chiffon stands out due to the unique method that is used to produce it. The weaving method used to make chiffon is called the alternate S-and Z-twist, and this name is derived from the shapes that yarn takes on when it is used to make this fabric: Yarn made into S-shapes is woven into yarn with Z-shapes, which results in a slightly puckered fabric that facilitates greater elasticity and produces a more textured appearance. This weaving method also gives chiffon a relatively rough feel.
Silk chiffon was originally worn as a sign of status, but now that this fabric can be made with relatively cheap textiles, it no longer provides this benefit. Instead, it is a relatively widespread material that is used in everything from bows and ribbons to wedding dresses. People from all over the world wear chiffon, and it continues to enjoy enduring popularity.
It's important to point out that chiffon fabric exists that emerged separately from the silk chiffon diaspora that originated in France. For instance, certain indigenous groups in Ethiopia and Eritrea have been making chiffon-like garments made from silk for hundreds of years. These garments usually take the form of ankle-length gowns, and they are often brightly colored.
In addition, chiffon has been produced in India for many centuries, and it is commonly used in saris, which are traditional Indian garments for women. As in France and other Western nations, silk chiffon was once used as a status symbol in India, and it has since become more mainstream.
Buy high-quality, low-priced chiffon fabric here. If you are UK based, you can buy it here.
Chiffon fabric is made with different methods depending on the type of material that is used to weave this unique type of textile. The production of silk , for instance, involves the breeding of silkworms, the softening of cocoons, and the reeling of filaments. Polyester production, on the other hand, involves no organic components, and this fabric is made entirely from synthetic chemicals that are synthesized in a laboratory.
No matter what base material is used to make chiffon fabric, once this textile yarn has been produced, the weaving of chiffon follows a uniform pattern. The yarn used to make this type of textile is arranged in opposing S-shaped and Z-shaped curves, and it is then woven together with a loom or an industrial weaving machine.
Black & Metallic Cosmic Print Chiffon Shirt Dress
Due to the fact that chiffon fabric is incredibly delicate, this textile is often woven by hand. No matter what material it is made from, the production of chiffon fabric is often a slow and laborious affair; while automated machines can be used to make this fabric, these machines also have to work at relatively slow paces to avoid causing any damage to finished textiles.
Since it has such a slippery texture, tailors may place sheets of paper on either side of chiffon during the sewing process to ensure that it remains in place. Once the chiffon fabric garment is fully sewn, the paper is carefully ripped out.
Shop a wide variety of chiffon fabrics here for US and rest of world here and here if you are UK based.
This style of fabric is mainly used to make garments for women. Chiffon fabric is very delicate, so it is not typically used in daily apparel. Instead, it is used to make nightgowns, evening wear, or blouses that are meant for special occasions. Since it is semi-transparent, it is common to use chiffon fabric to make overlays, which are types of garments that go over opaque types of apparel to impart a textured or delicate appearance.
Since so many different types of chiffon fabric are made from a wide variety of materials, it's hard to pick a clear winner in the global market for this product. As with most textiles, China is the biggest exporter of finished chiffon fabric products, but in many cases, the raw silk or cotton used to make these garments may be made in other countries before it is sent to Chinese companies for finishing.
Silk has been produced in China for at least 5,000 years, but this substance has also been made in India and other neighboring countries for a nearly equal amount of time. Companies in nations like India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh may export their silk crops to China for final processing, or these companies may manufacture silk chiffon fabric products within the boundaries of their own nations.
If chiffon fabric is made from synthetic materials, however, chances are that it was made in China. This Asian nation is, for instance, the largest producer of polyester in the world, and companies in this country also make large quantities or rayon and nylon.
Chiffon fabric fetches varying prices depending on the material from which it is made. Silk chiffon fabric, for instance, remains the most expensive type of this textile, and it can be more than twice as expensive as chiffon fabric made from polyester or rayon. While some consumers believe that this increased price is well worth it, others prefer relatively inexpensive alternatives like polyester or cotton chiffon fabric.
Chiffon fabric varies both in style and in the materials that are used to make it:
The potential environmental ramifications of chiffon production vary depending on the type of material that is used to make this fabric. In general, the production of fully synthetic fabrics is more harmful to the environment than the production of semi-synthetic or organic fabrics, but it's also important to take into account the varying production processes that are used by different manufacturers.
Polyester is commonly used to make chiffon, and some manufacturers may still use nylon to make this type of fabric. Both polyester and nylon are derived from petroleum oil, which is a non-renewable resource. The acquisition of petroleum oil requires significant energy expenditures, and it is also almost always harmful to surrounding ecosystems.
Our Solid Chiffon scarves feature a smooth, light weight polyester chiffon fabric
The processing of petroleum oil is also harmful to the environment, and when this substance is used to make nylon and petroleum, a number of byproducts are produced that may or may not be disposed of correctly. In addition, both nylon and polyester are non-biodegradable fabrics, which means that they contribute to the massive pile-up of trash that is accumulating in landfills, waterways, and forests all around the world.
When chiffon fabric is made from silk, however, the environmental impact of the production of this textile is negligible. The production of silk is sustainable , and it doesn't release any toxins into the environment.
This fabric is derived from the cocoons that are made from silkworms, which are caterpillar-like insects that primarily live on mulberry trees. These worms only eat mulberry leaves, and it is not necessary to use pesticides or fertilizers to grow these leaves.
The only potential environmental impact of growing silk is the harm to insects that is a necessary aspect of this type of textile production. To liberate the silky cocoon from the juvenile silkworm, this cocoon must be boiled with the silkworm inside, which kills the worm. Some animal rights activists contend that this practice is inhumane. However, it can't be denied that silk is biodegradable and, overall, environmentally-friendly.
Nylon Chiffon Tricot
Cotton production similarly does not cause a significantly negative environmental impact. In some cases, toxic substances may be used to bleach or clean cotton, but the production of cotton seeds to make this type of fabric is generally a non-toxic and environmentally-friendly process. Additionally, cotton is biodegradable, and the production of this fabric involves sustainable practices.
Some chiffon fabric is made from rayon, however, and this substance is significantly harmful to the environment. While rayon is somewhat more biodegradable than purely synthetic fabrics like polyester or nylon, the chemicals used to make this semi-synthetic textile are highly toxic, and they may harm workers or the ecosystems surrounding rayon factories.
The types of certifications available for chiffon depend on the materials that are used to make this fabric. For instance, if chiffon is made from nylon, polyester, or rayon, it is not eligible for USDA organic certification or any other type of non-GMO or organic certification since these types of fabrics are either fully synthetic or semi-synthetic.
If chiffon is made from silk or cotton, however, it may be possible to have garments made from this fabric certified as organic. Producers of cotton or silk chiffon have the option of producing their crops using sustainable practices, and if they do so, they may meet the organic certification guidelines offered by the USDA or similar organizations.
Even if chiffon is made from fully synthetic ingredients, however, it may be possible to have this fabric certified by the Global Recycle Standard (GRS) . This organization observes the practices that are used by synthetic fabric producers to make their textiles, and if it is found that only recycled materials are used, synthetic chiffon producers may qualify for GRS certification.
Interfacings are crucial to achieving good results but the sewing patterns rarely talk much about them. Choosing a wrong kind of interfacing may ruin your project and I have surely managed to make every possible mistake from using an interfacing too stiff to having my interfacing shrink in the wash. So, here are some tips for you. (This post contains a few affiliate links.)
Interfacing is a fabric that is added between fabric layers to offer support, weight and structure. Most commonly interfacing is used in collars, cuffs and facings. Interfacing stiffens the fabric and helps the garment maintain its shape. In tailored garments the whole coat fronts can be interfaced.
There are three basic types of interfacing: woven, non-woven and knit interfacing.
White woven interfacing.Woven is, just as the name suggests, woven fabric that can come in several different weights and colours.
Non-woven is generally made by bonding or felting fibres together without any specific direction or grainline. These interfacings do not unravel and can be cut into any direction but they may be a bit stiffer than woven ones.
Knit interfacing.Knit interfacings are made out of knit fabric and stretch in one direction. These are therefore particularly well suited for knit or stretchy fabrics.
Most of the interfacings in fabric stores are fusible. The fusible interfacings have a grid of glue dots coating on the wrong side. The heat of your iron is then used to fuse the interfacing to the fabric.
The sew-in interfacings are a bit less common among home sewers but they aren’t particularly difficult to use. Basically you just machine baste the interfacing to the piece of fabric and then continue sewing as usual. In couture and tailoring, the interfacings are often fastened by hand and there may be several layers of interfacing to create just the right shape for a garment.
Felt interfacing.There are also thicker felt-like interfacings for non-garment projects such as bags.
The interfacing fabric doesn’t need to be labelled as “interfacing” for you to be able to use it as such. I have successfully used cotton lawn, silk organza and gabardine as sew-in interfacing.
The interfacing should match the fabric. Use lightweight interfacing for lightweight fabrics and thicker interfacing for thicker ones. Woven goes with woven fabrics and stretchy knit with stretchy fabrics. If you ask me, it’s better err to the lighter side than have your interfacing overwhelm your fabric. Your interfacing can be crisper than your fabric but it shouldn’t be heavier. If you are unsure, you can always interface a small piece of fabric and see how the finished fabric behaves.
Heavier interfacing that is suitable for heavier fabrics such as tweed.Check that your interfacing can be washed and cared the same way as your fabric and that your fabric will be able to withstand the fusing process if you are using the fusible interfacing. For those delicate fabrics, the sew-in interfacing is the safest option.
You wash your fabric before sewing because it may shrink? Yes? However, do you also wash your interfacing? I have learned the hard way that you should. Especially the interfacings containing natural fibres can shrink in the wash. If you haven’t pre-shrunk the interfacing you will have bubbling or rippled effect after you wash the garment. This is even more annoying because the interfacing is generally used in the collars and cuffs that are often a focal point of your garment. And believe me, you can’t get rid of those bubbles no matter what you try!
So the best way to pre-shrink your interfacing is to soak it in a warm water and lay it flat to dry or run it through washer and dryer. If you don’t have time to wash the interfacing you can at least steam it hovering the iron over it.
The interfacing of the shirt cuff has shrunk in the wash. Also the dots of the adhesive show through. With this Liberty tana lawn I should have chosen another kind of interfacing.Choose the colour of your interfacing based on your fabric colour. The basic interfacing colours are white, black and grey. The interfacing colour shouldn’t show through your fabric. Also, you might see some fibres from the interfacing through the cuts of your buttonholes, so it is better to use dark interfacing with dark fabrics.
When I was making my trench coat I had to interface the back of the buttonhole and I noticed that my bright white interfacing was showing through my sand coloured gabardine. What I did was that I made a cup of tea and soaked my little piece of interfacing in it. After the tea treatment the interfacing was dyed more natural white.
The fusible interfacings have a grid of glue dots coating on the wrong side. The heat of your iron is then used to fuse the interfacing to the fabric. Here it is important to follow the directions. I have once managed to melt my interfacing with an iron that was too hot!
Lightweight fusible interfacing.It’s a good idea to cut the interfacing a few millimetres smaller than the piece of fabric so that the edges do not stick to the ironing board. Lay down your the fabric right side down and spread the interfacing on to of it. Do not use steam and protect your iron by placing a piece of greaseproof paper or an ironing cloth between your iron and the interfacing fabric. Hold the iron still and press for 10 to 15 seconds, depending on your chosen interfacing. Take your time and check that the interfacing has fused properly. You shouldn’t see any bubbling.
Shaping the collar with the help of interfacing.A tip: You can shape a collar with fusible interfacing. First, fuse the roll line of the collar with the tip of your iron. Then shape the collar on a tailor’s ham while fusing the rest. This helps your collar to maintain its shape! This blog post has more info of my trench coat collar construction, including the interfacing.
Basically, you just sew the interfacing to the piece of fabric and then continue sewing as usual. This can be often done by machine but in some cases of bulkier interfacing it is better to do it by hand to avoid having the extra bulk from the interfacing in the seams.
With pad stitching it is possible to shape fabric without making it stiff. Here is an example from my winter coat project:
Padstitched collar.I have found it very useful to use interfacing tapes. Very often you have a need to enforce a zipper edge or a shoulder seam and these tapes offer a quick way to do it without any need to cut long strips of interfacing. Prym has different widths of this kind of tape interfacing that I use regularly:
For the knit top necklines, Prym has this Seam tape interfacing that is pretty new to me but after I tried it, I like it very much. It makes it easy to create smooth and very professional looking necklines for knit garments. Just iron it on and turn the edge! The chain stitched line in the tape adds strength while the tape itself has some stretch to it:
I usually buy at least 2 metres of interfacing while I’m shopping for it. This way I don’t have to go back buying more all the time and I can choose the best interfacing from my stash. Besides I can avoid having so many of those annoying little leftover pieces that are good for nothing. My basic storage has lightweight woven interfacing in white and black, white stretch interfacing and white non-woven interfacing. I also have a stash of tailoring interfacings such as hair canvas, wool canvas, linen holland and silk organza.
Tailoring interfacings: wool canvas and hair canvas.Fusible web is a paper-backed web with double-sided adhesive. It is super handy when making cute appliqué designs. First, you fuse the web to the fabric by ironing from the paper side. Then you remove the paper and iron your design to the garment. If you make a lot of appliqué designs you can create adhesive fabric that can be just cut to shape when you need it.
Stabilizers are not actually interfacings but I think they are worth a mention. Stabilizers are meant to be removed after sewing by tearing, cutting or washing. They help to prevent the fabric from stretching or damaging during stitching. I always use stabilizer when attaching appliqué designs such as the one on the picture above.
I hope you found this post useful! Thank you for reading and subscribe to follow me on my sewing adventures. Happy sewing!
Katja
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